Our idea of what's permissible in make-up has undergone a drastic change in recent years. It is rare to see a woman over eighteen without lipstick and powder. Lipstick should follow the natural lines of the mouth. Colored nail polish is more usual than not, although it is attractive to see well-groomed, healthy nails that have merely been buffed.
Mascara, once used only at night by some women, is frequently worn day and night in a variety of colors, from blue and green to various shades of brown or black. Heavy black mascara is often hard looking, but the others, properly applied (to the upper lashes only in the daytime) and of the non-smear variety, can help the appearance very much, especially that of a person with pale lashes. Eyebrows, if they need darkening, should be lightly rubbed with an eyebrow pencil the reverse of the hair growth, then brushed back into place, never drawn on. The eyebrow pencil can be used adroitly with an upward stroke, especially at night, at the far corners of the eyes to give them depth and to elongate them, but the line should be blurred with the finger tips.
Rouge, when used (and the older we grow the older it makes us look), is often best not on cheeks. It can bring a glow to some faces if it is lightly applied above the eyelid, shading toward the temples. A little on the vertical planes of the nose bridge, on the chin or the ear lobes can play nice tricks, but experiment is needed.
Eye shadow is perilous stuff. It must be applied with a light touch, if at all. If nature had darkened your lids naturally, that is a cue, often, that you can wear eye shadow. If you lids are small and light, shadow often makes you look dead tired. You'll be better off with mascara.
It is often more youthful to leave all but the nose unpowdered and to allow a little shine on your face. Pancake make up, or a good powder base, helps at night to keep make up fresh, but daylight hours too often disclose its masklike properties.
A pocket sized magnifying make up mirror is a requisite for every woman. It should be consulted regularly.
Amy Vanderbilt's Complete Book of Etiquette 1954